Unexpected Germany: travelling through Baden Wurttemberg and the Black Forest of the Brothers Grimm

This is one of the travel to put on the to-do list. This area of southwestern Germany's Baden Wurttemberg hides nature-wonderful places wrapped in an ancient mystery

When I think of Baden-Württemberg, I immediately want to go back. It is one of those undiscovered regions of Germany that stays in your heart, perfect in every season, but for me there are two ideal times to experience it at its best: winter and summer. In December and January, ideal if you are a dreamer looking for an enchanted world thanks to the Christmas Markets..

xmas market Ravennaschlucht -Look ad this video

These are not just markets, but real experiences. Among the most beautiful and organized in the world. It is pleasant to walk among illuminated stands (despite the low temperatures) with the fragrance of spices in the air, a glass of brulè wine in your hands (a panacea for a chill of warmth) and maybe a softly falling snowflake. It is all so magical! If you are a thermal spa or snow lover, the scenery is even more magical especially in winter. Baden Baden (meaning Baths) is called the grande dame of German spas (accessible to all). Its warm waters have made it famous throughout Europe. Snow and spas often go hand in hand. Even in the days of Queen Victoria it was frequented by the wealthy nobility of the time who came here to relax. I have spent hours relaxing in the saunas, and I assure you that after a cold day it is the height of happiness to take a spa course in little houses heated up to 100 degrees. Some I have been to Badeparadies Schwarzwald and Solemar and Der Öschberghof (qui trovate anche hotel) and Terme di Caracalla

But beware. In Germany you can enter completely naked in the spa areas (steam bath or sauna)

Read BEST CHRISTMAS MARKET IN GERMANY

And then there is the summer. From May to August, Baden-Württemberg changes completely. Nature explodes in a thousand colors, the meadows are green and flowers everywhere. For those who love walking and cycling, it is really very beautiful. There are never-ending bike paths and trails here, there is something for all levels, and every corner gives you a different view, and you can even get around the everyday by bike.

It is beautiful to get lost among forests, vineyards and small villages that look like something out of a postcard. If you love nature and the outdoors, this is the season for you. No matter what kind of trip you are looking for, whether it is relaxation or adventure, Baden-Württemberg always has something special to offer. I can't wait to go back, and I really hope you can experience it too!

In my column "A portata di Manu" I offer you ideas, experiences and itineraries, but also things to do if you come to these parts In the article (next to each individual experience) are all the references for booking tickets or excursions or guided tours in the area

Where is Baden-Wurttemberg

Germany is divided into 16 federal states, also known as "Lander" in Dutch. These states are: Baden-Württemberg, Bavaria, Berlin, Brandenburg, Bremen, Hamburg, Hessen, Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, Lower Saxony, North Rhine-Westphalia, Rhineland-Palatinate, Saarland, Saxony, Saxony-Anhalt, Schleswig-Holstein, and Thuringia. Each state has its own government and parliament, and they have some self-government in areas such as education, culture and police.

Baden Wurttemberg is one of the largest states in Germany, includes forest-covered mountains, large lakes, and romantic cities, set in a diverse landscape bordering Switzerland and France that make it truly special and international. From thermal spas (popular almost year-round due to cold temperatures) to natural areas to historic cities and towns, a trip to Baden-Wuerttemberg offers attractions for everyone and the whole family.

The region also includes one of Germany's oldest universities located in Freiburg then there are also cities such as Tübingen Constance, Karlsruhe and Stuttgart and beautiful forests and bicycle paths that run through the green and connect all of Germany's cities, making life green, being able to engage in outdoor sports and change lifestyle

The Black Forest is one of the most famous destinations in Baden-Wuerttemberg. This area of mountains, forests and waterfalls host small spa towns and excellent ski resorts within a magnificent scenic setting. I've made several stops in the Parco naturale della Foresta Nera meridionale both cycling and walking. The Black Forest also includes numerous lakes that can be visited by boat, such as that of Costanza or Bodensee, and Schluchsee and the Titisee you absolutely must see.

There are many equipped barbecue areas in the Black Forest. Here, the State provides public and communal areas, picnic and barbecue areas where you can bring food and relax. There are also open-air gyms in almost every town in Germany.

Among the most famous cities is Stoccarda, a real beauty full of historic buildings. Being the capital and largest city of Baden-Wuerttemberg, Stuttgart hosts impressive castles, beautiful gardens, various museums and art galleries. Check out the imposing Castle of Solitude, an 18th-century Rococo Palace located in the Stuttgart-West district, and the lush botanical-zoological garden, called Wilhelma.

How to reach Baden Wurttemberg. Connections to Baden Baden, Stuttgart, Zurich and Basel

The first time I flow from Bari to Baden Baden with a Ryanair flight. However, this area is also well served by other airports such as Stuttgart, Zurich and Basel. The picture is about Basel Airport famous for the double international exit that allow people to go out on the France side or the Switzerland part.

By plane: 

There are some airlines that operate flights from Bari or Brindisi to and from the airports of Stoccarda or Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden, Basel Mulhouse Friburgo and Zurigo

1) Eurowings (from Bari e Brindisi to Stoccarda)

2) Ryanair (only from Bari to Baden Baden)

3) Easy Jet both Brindisi and Bari for Aeroporto di Basilea Mulhouse Friburgo.

4) ITA with a stop-over in Rome from Zurich and then a direct flight from Rome to Bari or Brindisi

5) Swiss air From Zurich with a direct flight to Bari

If you fly into Stuttgart you can take a train to Baden Baden which in 1h 30 minutes (cost about 30 euros) takes you to the spa town.

If you fly into Baden Baden from the airport there are buses leaving every hour toward Baden Baden central station. Train schedules to or from Baden Baden station you can look up on the official Deutsche Bahn  website however from the station you can also take another bus to the center or other direct buses to some cities in Baden-Wuerttemberg. The Baden Baden station is located along the Mannheim-Karlsruhe-Basel railway. To get from Karlsruhe Airport/Baden Baden (FKB) to Baden-Baden, you can also go by cab, it costs €75 - €95 and takes 22 min

If you fly into Basel you have some options

A Flixbus bus on French side exit to Reach Villingen (in Germany)

The fastest train ride from Villingen-Schwenningen to Basel and vice versa takes 2 hours 35 minutes. During the week, there are about 43 trains per day. Travel times may change on weekends and holidays. Unfortunately, there is no direct connection from Villingen-Schwenningen to Basel. You have to change trains at least once on this route. The first train from Villingen-Schwenningen to Basel is at 05:49. The last train from Villingen-Schwenningen to Basel is at 23:08.

Or you can rent a car

Must do things in Baden Wurttemberg

Moving by car allowed me to create a tailor-made vacation by choosing from all the wonderful opportunities this part of the territory offers: Hiking in the Black Forest, visiting the lake and the city of Constance, tasting with typical German dishes, visiting the European Parliament, (Strasburgo, Francia) to have dinner in the Stuttgart Cheese Factory, , (Alsazia, Francia) visiting the waterfalls (Svizzera). I also treated myself to lots of relaxation at the spa as well as more than one visit to the sparkling university city of Freiburg im Breisgau whose historic center is a little medieval gem.

Villingen-Schwenningen, a step away from the black forest

As I planned the trip, I became curious about the story of Villingen-Schwenningen and I have been thinking of staying right here and I have been coming to this town more and more often now. It is 1.30 hours away from Baden Baden in the German state of Baden-Württemberg, in the Schwarzwald region, in the Freiburg administrative district.

Two townships Villingen and Schwenningen converging into a modern town in the Black Forest. Villingen used to be part of the Grand Duchy of Baden while Schwenningen used to be part of the Duchy of Württemberg. Villingen is the more attractive of the two because it is sorrounded by high walls within which, the town reminds one of a medieval mountain village with its colorful buildings and peaked roofs. The Saturday morning the must do is the market in the small town square, where people love to go shopping and buying lots of quality and fresh food for the whole week. I highlight the cheese stand and recommend you try the very good French cheese EPOISSES spreadable cheese (it is quite addictive because of how good it is even though it leaves an incredible stink on your hands). Also great is the Cheesecake stand (classic or berry) that you can find at Stefans . The fruit and vegetable stalls are interesting, but so is the bread stand to mark the great connection with Puglia

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where to dine in Villlingen - Schwenningen

Experience the Holy Mary of Lourdes in the Black Forest

From Villingen, I visited the Lourdes-Grotte zur Elsenau  for convenience I also give you the coordinate di Google della grotta.  Among other suggestions, with a 25 km flat trek.  The Lourdes Cave at the Marian pilgrimage site "Elsenau" is wonderfully nestled in nature on the country road between Obereschach and Kappel. The prayer place is visited all year round with pleasure by many faithful coming from near and far.

You can also reach the Lourdes Grotte by car in 20 minutes.

The old town of Villingen

Villingen lies on the border between the Black Forest and the Baar Plateau, and is crossed by the Brigach, one of the waterways that joins the Breg at Donaueschingen to form the Danube. The old town, surrounded by ancient medieval walls, is dotted with towers and gates that once served as entrances to the city. Prominent among them is the Romäus Tower, dedicated to the legendary Landsknecht hero of local lore. Don't miss the majestic cathedral dating from the 12th century and the fountain in the square in front of it, adorned with curious, grotesque sculptural scenes.

The Villingen Cathedral

Villingen Cathedral ( Münster of Our Lady ) is a cathedral in the center of the Villingen district in Villingen-Schwenningen . It is the main Catholic church in Villingen. It was originally dedicated to John the Baptist. In addition to church services, concerts are also held in Villingen Cathedral , although these are limited to sacred music

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where to dine in Villlingen - Schwenningen

FREIBURG in Breisgau

If you are in this area you have several alternatives. You can stay in either Villingen (medieval city par excellence) or Constance (magical because of the lake) or Freiburg, a sparkling and culturally vibrant city. The atmosphere in Freiburg is typical of Mediterranean countries (far from German stereotypes). People here have a relaxed lifestyle characteristic of Baden - west of Freiburg. I felt right away the easy going attitude of the people I met on the street who were sitting intent on sipping a coffee or a good wine in the old town, full of cafes and small restaurants. I was impressed by its atmosphere and the details that make it special, such as the Bächle, small streams of crystal-clear water fed by the fiume Dreisam river that flow along the streets of the old town where “people” have a habit of chilling bottles of wine for dinner. Read more about what to do in FREIBURG IM BREISGAU

Thermal Spa Baden Baden what a passion

The best way to understand German culture is by going to spas or saunas and spending as much time as possible. The saunas here are for naked people. Aside from the initial discomfort no one pays any attention to the others, getting undressed and re-connecting with the water and vapors is part of the culture of this people.

I have been to spas on more than one occasion by taking a spa trip to "Terme Solemar" in Bad Dürrheim with 13 indoor and outdoor pools. The beauty of these places is that the water here is always warm. Pleasant the steambath, but I mostly spent my time by the Jacuzzi jets in the outdoor pool.

This is a European spa that uses salt water, and there are six themed saunas (with a separate entrance) whose heat reaches up to 80 degrees. To get into each of the six, the walking path is in the trees, connected by stone stairs, that you have to walk down in a towel, completely wet at an outside temperature that is I would say freezing but pleasant due to the very high body temperature reached in the sauna.

I went back to the spa several times in the winter months and enjoyed in December the 5o degrees of water and the -10 degrees of outdoor temperature.

However I also visited the Terme di Caracalla a beautiful complex with a huge central pool and spacious relaxation area Some I have been to Badeparadies Schwarzwald and Solemar and Der Öschberghof (qui trovate anche hotel) and Terme di Caracalla 

Black Forest , magical in winter romantic in spring

This wonderful forest of more than 150 km was the setting for some of the most beautiful and famous fairy tales written by the Brothers Grimm.

Sadly, the Baden Wurttemberg area was not among those of most inspiration for the brothers Grimm. Nevertheless, foresta nera in his imagery made me become a child again. Being guided by the sound of nature and the twitter of little birds, I have imagined running into the little marzipan house discovered by the little brothers Hansel and Gretel (set in Christenberg) or watching Little Red Riding Hood popping up running away from the wolf (set in the forest near Schwalmstadt) or suddenly reaching the foot of Hofgeismar Castle where the story of The Sleeping Beauty took place. I only guessed because the same are sighted in the northern part of Germany. In Any case, trekking in the Black Forest, whether on foot or by bike, is an essential stop all the times you pass through these parts. Since I frequent this part of Germany, I have been milling kilometers on foot and by bike, immersed in the thickest vegetation and towering old trees that barely filter the sun's rays.

It lies in southwest Germany, as we mentioned, in the Baden-Württemberg region. It were the Romans who gave it this name (Latin Silva Nigra), for its vegetation made of dark green trees and so dense that the sun's rays do not shine through. The Black Forest has many activities for both adults and children. Among these is the lake Titise e le cascate Triberg, Triberg waterfalls, the highest within the Black Forest.They are reached by walking along a path through the woods. Here the Gutach waters form a beautiful waterfall with 7 leaps on the granite rocks

Trekking, walking and biking, with departure from Villingen in the Black Forest

No matter if you are a fan of scenic views, long-distance cyclists or short-distance runner, or walkers. The Black Forest can be explored with a lot of pleasure by bicycle and on foot. The bicycle trail network in the Black Forest tourism region is very extensive. From this link Percorsi TREKKING e BICI Foresta Nera or by downloading the app you can easily have a guide at hand and following in addition to road signs indicated by road, very easy, accurate, with an explanation of the kilometers to be covered to get to your destination, find your way with the paths traced in the phone.

Lake and City of Constance

For Germans, the Lake of Constance is a real sea, to the point that they call it "Schwäbisches Meer" We have been there several times reaching this location either by car or by bike (there is a whole bike path) but then returning by train in the evening. Lago di Costanza, well known as Bodensee.  is the third largest freshwater lake we have in Europe.If you are around here, the daylight stays until 10 p.m. allowing you lots of time to visit the medieval city of Constance, Germany's most southern city.

The symbol of Constance is a statue of "Imperia" Read BEST OF COSTANCE FOR AN AMAZING WEEKEND

Read the special OUT DOOR TOURS IF YOU ARE IN BADEN WURTTEMBERG